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2017 YAMAHA 600
Triple SX DX PROJECT SLED
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ASSEMBLE AN
OTHERWISE VERY LOW KM CHASSIS INTO A DESCENT RUNNING SLED.
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ASSEMBLE THE
SLED WITH REPLACEMENT COMPONENTS.
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END UP WITH A
WELL EQUIPPED SLED THAT HAS EXTREMELY RESPONSIVE
HANDLING .
This 600 triple
is estimated to have 100 HP. The O.E.M. track is a 121 x 15 with an advertised .92" lug. We
change the track out for a 1.25" upgrade. This sled's reasonably
short track and all temperature responsive 100 HP mill make it a great trail breaker thru the tight NISBET FOREST trails.
But that is only half of the story...rarely is economy
discussed, expect bragging rights at every fuel stop!
Economy...we rarely
discuss fuel mileage at
SNOCRUISE
in the Saskatchewan prairies
because we ride such large variety of cross-country snow
conditions. We are more concerned with the relative location of
Small towns
with fuel service in our riding area. But under
archives we tabulate fuel usage
for fun at most stops. Look for an "F" added to the rides "Link"
on our "Archives page. Fuel mileage is usually best gauged on
consistent "groomed trail riding" conditions.
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1.
THE ENGINE was CATASTROPHICALLY BLOWN UP!!
2. UPGRADE
the TRACK
3. SURPRISE DAMAGE that we
hadn't COUNTED ON!
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1. THE ENGINE was
CATASTROPHICALLY BLOWN UP!!
When the snowmobile was
acquired for parts. It did not turn over. She was locked up
solid. The sled only had 1600 original KM's on it when I bought
it, I put it away until I found the parts required to give it a
new lease on life. The sled was evidently stored inside out of
the moisture or there would of been nothing salvageable.
It would appear that;
a) She was driven very little,
b) Had not received the constant seasonal service necessary to
keep a small engine powered toy alive!
c) Was driven with completely plugged carbs resulting in a burnt
piston.
d) At this point it would appear that the operator thought it
would make more sense to drive the sled....try to drive the
sled....home?? rather than tow it in and load it up!! |
The #2
middle cylinder was destroyed.

#2 piston was completely separated mechanically from
the connecting rod. |

This is the spare bottom
end obtained when we bought an SX Venom 600 our of Lac
la Ronge. |
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An otherwise very low KM crankshaft that needs a rod kit.
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The debris and chunks of
piston skirt that floated around twisted the connecting
rod and locked her solid. |
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Magnifying the piston top the exhaust
side arrow is located.

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She ran lean for an
extended period of time, long enough to not only melt
the piston off but it appears to have been a running
aluminum river! |
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WOW this is
pretty messy.

This about as drastic as it gets. |

The piston was sticking in the cylinder
and was kept running... |

...until it tore the wrist pin right out of the piston. |
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The #2 connecting rod had knocked a hole in the
cases. |

Then the accompanying
hole in the bottom of the cases became a blow torch of
fuel and oil combusting from the cylinder past the
absent piston thru the hole in the cases... |

...into the belly pan melting all
the wiring and oil lines passing under the engine. |
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Well the outside sparkplugs were
running pretty good! |

The outside
pistons were perfect low KM ones that we would be
reusing, the stain is from being locked in the same
position for years and years. |

With the bottom end, salvaged off
of a 2004
"Venom"
obtained for parts, and center or
#2 piston and cylinder replaced with a she is going back
together |
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2. UPGRADE
the TRACK
Part of the
puzzle is upgrading the track for our Nisbet cross country
riding. A lot of opinions is out there but we want a maximum
traction in loose snow and yet something that can be driven on a
groomed trail from time to time....maybe never...but if it
happens! You don't want to overheat the track and sliders or the
suspension and track will look pretty similar to the engine in
this sled as we bought it. Also the more snow moving and being
carried by the track the slower the sled will be. This is just
plain physics, we have found that a 121 x 15 x 1.5 is great on
our 115HP 700's and that a 121 x 15 x 1.25 is great on our 100HP
600's.
A few years
earlier I had bought this real nice condition track off of an
45th anniversary year 2000 600XCSP that was being parted
because ignition components were no longer available and she was
torn down. |
A) TRACK UPGRADE

The OEM track is in very good condition and
probably ideal for groomed trails...if that is all she is going
to see!!

This is the Camoplast/Polaris
#5411487 that I had tucked away specifically for this project.
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c) SHOCK INSPECTION

The main rear skid frame shock is dry and free of
corrosion. |

This is the middle, or front skid
frame shock all good. |
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b)
CHAIN CASE
SURPRISE

This lower sprocket spacer has been found in
backwards! |

It will be fine but show lots of
wear marks from contact with... |

,,,the snap clip retaining the
lower RT hand side drive bearing... |

...had
the spacer or bushing been in the right way the shoulder
would of held it off the large snap ring. On the
preceding photo look at the rust on the end of the lower
drive shaft...the bolt and washer was out!! |

I pull seals and packed
with grease. |

The
seals pressed in. |
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d) REAR SUSPENSION
INSTALL

The suspension has been weaseled down into the track,
where it is time to line up the threaded
suspension mounts, holes in the chassis and bolts. |

This is one of the most important
places to use Locktite. Note the duck seal on the
socket. |

The bolt has to stay in the socket
while you insert the 1 foot extension in thru the body
plug opening. |

Once the couple front side bolts
are in you can install the rear bolts with a few extra
little tricks. |

Getting these last rear suspension
bolts lined up like this nice. |

I pulled the LT side lower and
upper drive bearing seals... |

...and
pack them. |

This 1 1/4" track looks right at
home here. |
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3.
SURPRISE DAMAGE that we
hadn't COUNTED ON! |
a) HEAT EXCHANGER
DIAGNOSIS SURPRISE

This is the unusual "spot" I noticed on the rear heat
exchanger, then inside this "grey" spot a... |

...little green spot, hmmm WT...is this. It is an
antifreeze leak "seeping" thru a epoxy patch. |

Removing the heat exchanger we find a
patch on both sides matching an extra hole in the rear
valance. I think a long time ago the owner should of let
the dealer ship mount the license plate for him. |

The heat exchanger that I salvaged
off of a parts sled. |
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b) HEAT EXCHANGER
INSTALL

The rear valance gets some needed straightening. |

Squared up it bolts to the sides. |

Someone a long time ago had reinstalled
the heat exchanger with only 3 small aluminum rivets.
This is a chassis integrity installation and it actually
calls for 6 steel rivets done properly. |

Gonna add some coolant, I had the rear of the machine
elevated so the coolant loss was minimal. |

With the back of the machine down, pull the rear bleeder
screw before installing the seat. |

Yup a little bit of antifreeze hits the floor. |

Pull the bleeder screw on the top of the engine. |

You do the math, didn't loose much
antifreeze during the
inaugural
full day of riding or the heat exchanger replacement.
Point is by looking the sleds over carefully you can
catch it. |
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c) SANITARY!

The birds spent many years perched
overhead... |

The dash air intake foam was deteriorated
and turned into nylon dust! |

Some sort of rat or mammal likely lived
under the remains of the engine for eons... |
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...man it was a lot of digging and
washing to get back to a sanitary build. |
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d) OTHER TIDBITS

I installed plastic skis and dually carbides that were
left over from our
700
Blue Max
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I disassembled and liberally greased all
the suspensions swivel points. |

A hitch had been welded on the rear bumper... |

...I had the hitch welded across the
bottom as well and tiewrapped out of the way looks good
with some paint. Tie wrapped out of the way the hitches
are quieter when not in use. |
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